Wednesday, September 26, 2012


It seems utterly appropriate, and quite wonderful, that as I'm working on this post, I'm sitting in the main room of my house, listening to something wonderful. The door is open to let in the (slightly) cool evening air, and I can hear the melodic buzzing sound of the call to prayer over the loudspeakers of my neighborhood mosque, while also listening to my next door neighbor, strumming his guitar with a group of friends, all of whom are singing Christian Hallelujah-y songs. There's also a really big lizard skittering across the wall, and that has nothing to do with anything, except that its really big and it has a pretty snazzy orangey-yellow pattern.

Recently, every time I pick up the Jakarta Post, I read an article or an editorial about protests in Islamic countries. When I check my gmail, it seems there is always another message from the US embassy warning me away from large gatherings of people. Friends of mine in other parts of Indonesia have had brief encounters with demonstrations, but here in Samarinda I have felt completely safe.

The news, the protests, all of it has gotten me caught up in a lot of interesting discussions about the movie, “Innocence of Muslims” (though I have yet to talk to anyone who has actually seen it, Google has blocked it in Indonesia), about tensions between Islam and the West, and about freedom and persecution in general.

It has been a fascinating subject to think about academically, and then a slightly scary subject to think about when I remember these protests and demonstrations are really happening. The Indonesian Muslims that I've talked to condemn the violence, but they also don't understand why the United States would allow a film like that to be made in the first place. Why can't our government do something to stop something so hateful from being made? (or don't they want to?). There is a general feeling not of violent rage, but just of sadness.

Editorials in the newspaper here talk about the fact that our American value of individualism and our constitutional freedom of speech don't seem as clear in parts of the world where people don't have as much freedom from government censorship. The editorials also talk about freedom of speech vs. a freedom from being hurt. People feel legitimately hurt by the blasphemy of this video, in fact, Indonesia's President SBY announced plans to address the UN at the upcoming conference asking that the UN adopt an international protocol affirming that intentional insults to religion are not freedom of expression, but are intentional attempts to create violence. This is the idea that these provocations not be recognized as causing violence, but as being violence.

A friend of mine, who has the bahasa skills to delve into all these thorny issues sent out an email, quoting a man he talked to about the movie (italics are my friend's comments):

I listen to President Obama talk about freedom of expression on television and I think of course freedom of expression is good! Freedom of expression exists and it is a right, but I have rights also! I am HURT! HURT! HURT! My soul is HURT! Is freedom of expression more important than freedom to not get hurt?(When I write hurt, the phrase he was actually using was “melukai hati” or “hati dilukai” – which means to injure one’s heart or a heart is injured.) This is not freedom of expression, it is freedom of aggression, freedom to hurt people. That doesn’t exist! And President Obama says he can’t do anything about it because of freedom of expression. Yes he can! The CIA can kill people, it’s easy, they kill everyone who says things they don’t like. How hard is it for the CIA to walk up and stab the person who made this film. Then I could believe President Obama.”

He also said,

“In Indonesia we are better than other Muslim countries. We have freedom of expression. We can insult our government. But we don’t have freedom to insult religions, and we don’t want it. Freedom doesn’t mean you can kill people or rob from them – and religions are far more important than people. Religion is the most important thing. So if there is no freedom to hurt people, why is there freedom to hurt religion, which is more important?”

What this guy is saying seems pretty important, because while the conversation in American might be about freedom of speech and the intention of what one could say (and the intentional violence in might provoke), in Indonesia, they also see the film inself as violence. And as such, they are fairly wondering why the US government would let someone commit such violence without consequence. Most of them also deplore the violent reaction to the film, and people have assured me that Islam is a peaceful religion and violence is wrong.

Today I also had an interesting conversation with one of the teachers at school. She was in Australia right after the Bali bombing and simply because she walks around with her jilbob (headscarf) on, people assumed she was a Muslim (which she is) and went so far as to flip her off and yell “f – you” at her as she walked down the street. Talking about it today, she says she understands why people were upset, lots of people had just died. But still, to take out that sort of anger on a complete stranger seems so wrong.

She also talked about airport security. Whenever she travels internationally, she has come to expect extra security screenings and delays, just because of what people see when they look at her. This teacher's experiences aren't exactly connected to the film, but they do speak to the tension that exists between Islamic peoples and western cultures.

It all leaves my brain feeling a bit stuck. I believe very strongly in the importance of freedom of speech, those sorts of freedoms are one of my favorite things about my country. But I'm also starting to understand how hurtful statements and media like the “Innocence of Muslims” film are to Muslim people. It makes me wonder what will happen next. In our ever more connected, globalized world, hateful content can be created and spread so easily. What rules or values should apply when messages can fly around the world at the click of a button?

Wednesday, September 19, 2012


I just realized that I've been to the airport in Jakarta almost every weekend since I've been in Indonesia. I haven't always been flying someplace (at the end of training I went to the airport just to wave off everybody else), but I am starting to think I know my way around the place. I also managed to learn an important lesson about not leaving cash in an unlocked suitcase (even if its pretty well buried under a lot of other things), which I probably should have known already.

All that aside, I'm looking forward to spending some time away from the airport. I was in Samarinda for less than a week when I flew to Singapore to get my work permit, and I only just got back yesterday.

The trip to Singapore was good, but brief. I basically only had one day there, and part of it was spent making shady deals outside a MacDonalds, handing over my passport and a wad of cash to a man named Wahab*. The rest of the day I spent wandering through the National Museum, relaxing in a park, and admiring the merlion statue. The real highlight was probably that my hotel (another beautiful room, thanks AMINEF!) was in Little India, so I managed to pack away a lot of delicious palak paneer.

So far Samarinda has been good to me. I have a little green house on a hill and wonderful neighbors on either side of it who feed me and allow me to practice my terrible Indonesian on them. My school seems like a pretty great place too. The teachers have all been very kind and welcoming. Every day they bring in new Indonesian foods, so I am eagerly learning all the different ways you can make tempeh really delicious and really bad for you.

I haven't started teaching yet, but I have been around to a lot of the classes, introducing myself and taking questions from the students. The students have been studying English since they started school, so they know a lot, but seem a bit shy to actually talk to me yet. That's understandable, as I am completely shy about languages as well, turns out you feel pretty silly when you confuse the words “cook” and “enter” all the time (masak and masuk) and accidentally call yellow rice “cat rice” (nasi kuning vs. nasi kucing).

Outside of school, my life remains pretty tame. I go to the gym, read, study Indonesian, kill the ants in my house, and hang out with my neighbors. I've been to 2 weddings, they were my very first day here, and the hoards of people, food, and sparkly dresses was overwhelming in a really great way. I am trying to find my way around the town, which has been difficult, I haven't found a good map yet, and for a long while I didn't know my own address (Kate, Mom, you may remember that forgetting my own address is not so uncommon for me). Speaking of addresses, if perchance any of my loyal readers were inclined to send me mail, they can send it to my school:

SMAN 1
Jl. Bhayangkara 54
Samarinda 75121
KALTIM – INDONESIA

Awesome care package ideas include: fresh veggies, stinky cheeses, and good wine!
For the most part, I really do have everything I need. I managed to find floss in Singapore, and I have some dear family members who might be shipping some coffee-making tools out this way soon...

So things are good. I am excited and nervous to start teaching soon. I am looking forward to making friends in my community. And I've been logging a lot or hours on the treadmill at the gym, in hopes of staving off all the makanan goreng (fried food).

*The permit process was actually completely legal. It just makes for a much better story if I describe the shadiness of it.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

I've finally managed to upload some pictures, its a very random smattering of some of the things I saw my first week in Bandung.

Orchids grow in the wild!

 This is an angklun performance. They are playing Bohemian Rhapsody.

Pretty.

Fancy hotel room, I was so spoiled.

Waterfall! I think it speaks for itself.


Friday, September 7, 2012


Due to some slight and unexpected permit problems stemming from that silly old brand new passport I had to get before I left, I've spent the past few days since orientation ended in Jakarta, waiting to have my tourist visa extended.

I would love to say that I made the absolute most of this time in a wonderful city by going to museums, exploring the architecture of the old city, and practicing my flawless Indonesian with locals. But I didn't. I made the most of this time by going to beautiful rooftop bars with my two friends who have been stuck in the same permit-confusion boat as me, watching Game of Thrones, and spending way too much time in taxi traffic. Oh well. Such is life. Its been a wonderful past couple of days, a surprise because I wasn't overjoyed at the prospect when it all first happened.

I think its been a chance for my brain to relax after orientation. Every moment of those two weeks was sucked up by awesome conversations with new people and the challenge of trying to cram as much information about this place and my role here into my head as possible.

I found out today that I will be going to Samarinda tomorrow. A plane ticket was handed to me after an unexpected hotel change, along with some cash for future visa projects, and the phone number of my counterpart who will be meeting me at the airport tomorrow.

So tonight's my last night in Jakarta for a while. We've got plans to hit the town to celebrate. The plan starts with drinking cobra blood (which I'm afraid is exactly what it sounds like) and ends who knows where (but presumably with me getting a restful night sleep, and packing in a very efficient and organized manner, right?)